It all begins with their national carrier, Emirates Airline. Who else could think to install a spa shower and a lounge area onboard an A380 aircraft. That’s the kind of forward thinking the people of Dubai posses, always trying to push the envelope and race into the future. I asked myself if these amenities were necessary and for long haul flights, it seemed rightly so. I hate arriving at a destination reeking of yesterday and despite the comfy seating in business class, my legs began to cramp after 3 hours and I was glad to walk about (in small circles) in the lounge area. I also met some very friendly locals who pointed out what tourist spots to visit and miss. So far, win- win for all.
The Dubai International Airport is a tourist destination in itself. The high ceilings supported by giant white pillars greet you upon arrival. It is an airport that surpasses per functionary and tempts you into a world of excess and luxury. I bet photography enthusiasts were all itching to whip out their DSRL’s but alas we live in a world of heightened security. I didn’t seem to mind the long walk to baggage as I was kept distracted by the palace like atmosphere. I even felt a little underdressed in my tee and jeans. First impression of Dubai was that of true opulence.
My first stop was the Burj Khalifa and apparently tickets to the observation deck located on the 124th floor sells out in minutes of opening each day. Happy to have gotten my hands on some exclusive passes before opening hours suggested that nothing is impossible in Dubai, you just have to know who to ask. The elevator ride to the top was impressive, it didn’t feel as if you were moving at all and my ears didn’t pop either which was surprising. Thirty seconds later, we had arrived and as the elevator doors opened, you are greeted by the clouds, that’s right, white puffy clouds.
The observation deck offered a 360 degree view of Dubai. You could see the Arabian sea stretch for miles ahead and just a few steps to the left, a distant view of the neighbouring Emirate, Abu Dhabi. It was an amazing view of a city that has just shot up within the past decade. Everything was shiny and new. Each skyscraper seemed eager to outdo the next and each highway was ready to transport you to every nook and cranny of the city within minutes. But from the top, Dubai was not simply a metallic city, there were lakes and ponds (man-made I suppose) and parks and greenery that made Dubai look more like an artist’s impression drawing than an actual lived in city.
The perfection of Dubai was slowly starting to wear on me. No poverty, no dirt and no chaos? Where were they hiding the harsh realities of life?
I never did find the imperfections of Dubai that day but that was when I decided to join a dessert safari trip and make my way away from the metropolitan setting of the Middle East. This was probably my first real encounter with a local, a dessert safari driver who had come to pick me up from the hotel. It was the perfect opportunity to dig for dirt. After an hour, and the driver offering nothing but praise for this city and love for their beloved sheikh, I gave up. This may very well be the closest utopian atmosphere in the world. The rich lived like royalty and the middle class lived like the rich, breaking the mould and eradicating a lower class or so it all seemed.
An hour outside the city, there was nothing impressive to look at anymore but the vast empty desert. The terracotta landscape stretched for miles and as we approached the beginning of the four wheel drive trail through the famous sand dunes, we were met with what can only be described as a sea of tourists.
The drive through the sand dunes can be extremely nauseating for those with a queasy stomach. These dunes dip and peak at almost 80 degrees, making this the first drive that quite easily resembled an actual rollercoaster ride. I had a hard time staying in my seat and my lack of confidence in the Toyota seatbelt distracted me from enjoying the spectacular view. The ride ended with a stop in the middle of the desert where the hoard of tourists assembled once more to witness their first desert sunset. Despite sharing this unique moment with so many, I truly enjoyed sitting cross legged on the sand and watching darkness set over this land.
A short drive later, we arrived at the desert safari camp that had ample space to house the tourists comfortably. We made a bee line for the buffet dinner and then scored front row spots in front of the stage. We all sat on the carpet amid cushions and throw pillows as the belly dancer came out showing us all that her hips didn’t lie, while others opted for camel rides or henna tattoos. It was a fun night out, with a little of everything Arabian thrown in. The night ended with a complete blackout at the camp where we all got to witness the dessert starry sky.
I spent my last day in Dubai in a mall, but as you can imagine, this wasn’t any mall, it was the Mall of Dubai. Boasting 1.1 million square meters, this mall is the largest mall in the world and home to an underwater zoo, an ice rink, a hotel, a spectacular fountain and light show amongst the other more predictable tenants of a mall. The aquarium is definitely a sight, with 32.88 m wide × 8.3 m high acrylic viewing panel, naturally the largest in the world. In a way, the sheer magnitude of these marvels seemed insignificant to locals who are by now accustomed to the ‘bigger is better’ concept of living, a sad yet inevitable reality.
I ended the day amongst yet another crowd of tourists. We all waited patiently for the fountain, light and music show to start. Much to no amazement, the show was breathtaking, but I almost expected more.
I guess Dubai had a way of making you exceed your own wildest expectations. With all this infrastructure to keep up with, I’m sure those who worked here may have been working doubly hard this past decade, but what is the point if everyone is too jaded to appreciate it. Makes you really wonder if less is more at the end of the day. I guess Utopia will remain a mythical land, one that has no place in the world we currently live in.
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